Making ready a particular exhibition venture, Jon Cazenave mixed the style assortment of couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga with Spanish portray from the sixteenth to twentieth centuries. Between February and Could 2019, Cazenave put the style creations in the precise perspective for a list for the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, an artwork museum within the Palacio de Villahermosa in Madrid. He labored on the frilly manufacturing on the Museo Textil (Catalonia), on the Museo del Traje (Madrid) and on the Museo Balenciaga (Basque Nation). The Spanish photographer spoke with us in regards to the inventive method he develops for every of his initiatives, and the challenges of this exhibition venture, which he produced with a Leica S.
Primarily based in your different initiatives, it looks as if you develop a brand new visible language and type of presentation for every one…
I perceive my inventive observe as a instrument to know myself, so as soon as I’m capable of obtain the data to make use of a decided visible language, it doesn’t make sense to me to maintain on repeating that concrete aesthetic. My work has a robust relation to experimentation, and I attempt to incorporate each course of attainable with a purpose to carry on studying about how a picture is constructed. That is the explanation why I exploit analogue and digital pictures, charcoal course of, cyanotype, and even screenshots in my work.
You will need to have a robust connection to different artwork types.
I’ve at all times felt linked to portray, cinema, music and sculpture. The best way you mix images in a sequence could be very a lot associated to the rhythm in music; black and white pictures has a robust relationship with sculpture, the place matter and void play a elementary position; and, in fact, studying from the historical past of portray is admittedly vital to know the way in which a picture is constructed. Amongst all of the artists that encourage me, I’d underline the work of Jorge Oteiza, Andrei Tarkovski, Mark Rothko, Kazimir Malevich, Ryoji Ikeda, Pierre Soulages, and even Radiohead.
In 2019, you directed and produced the photographic work for the Balenciaga and Spanish Portray catalogue for the Thyssen-Bornemisza Nationwide Museum. It handled the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, an admired and influential dressmaker, and the custom of sixteenth to twentieth century Spanish portray. What was the most important problem you confronted?
The exhibition was curated in chapters, to analyse the connections between each issues, utilizing hyperlinks primarily based on conceptual options, architectural shapes and volumes and chromatic complicities. My essential concern was to vanish as an writer, to let the work and the clothes work together, to precise and relate to one another by themselves.
Your use of sunshine on this sequence could be very dramatic. You set the deal with sure particulars. Please inform us in regards to the gentle settings and the way you’ve managed to spotlight the materials and so forth.
I labored along with a group composed of Iñigo Kastezubi, a superb gentle assistant with a whole lot of expertise within the subject of style pictures, Jaime de los Ríos, a acknowledged video artist, and Rafael Arocha, a proficient artist answerable for the shoot. Collectively we had been capable of construct an intimate environment for the art work, and the totally different clothes appear to be touched by a sacred gentle making them shine within the darkness. The color black was additionally crucial in Spanish portray and style through the XVIth century, and it is usually within the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga; so we considered this gentle as a catalyser that might relate the 2 ideas of the exhibition.
You appear to have used studio flash gentle. What explicit flash system did you utilize?
We used 4 Profoto B1X flash lights supplied by Innova Foto, an organization positioned in Valencia. Though the environment of the photographs is darkish and intimate, the technical necessities to develop this look had been actually complicated and difficult. Every gown was photographed beneath particular standards in three totally different areas, so we made a powerful effort on lightning with one of the best gear attainable.
Please inform us one thing in regards to the backgrounds.
The backgrounds had been created by Kendu In-Retailer Visible Options, an organization from San Sebastian that gives visible options for the style business. We determined to construct two gray planes made out of versatile textile measuring 2.5 x 3 meters, to have a easy however efficient scenography for the art work. This geometric background had a transparent relation to the simplicity of Balenciaga’s designs, and the usage of material supplied us a hyperlink with the style business. Gray color was the best choice to create an intimate environment, the place the scenography grew to become the right context to deal with the great items of artwork by Balenciaga.
What physique and lenses did you utilize for the venture?
I used a Leica S medium format digicam with Leica Summicron-S 100 f/2 Asph and Leica Summarit-S f/2. 5 Asph lenses. I couldn’t think about higher gear to supply this venture. The Leica S system ensures the highly effective picture decision required for this sort of project, with an optimum digicam measurement and a simple working system. The taking pictures periods unfolded with pleasure, due to the intuitive use and compact design of the digicam. The expertise of utilizing Leica gear was undoubtedly one thing to recollect!
What are you engaged on proper now?
I’m getting ready a ebook for the Artwork Assortment of the Basque Authorities, with pictures I took between 2020 and 2021; and I’m additionally getting ready the proposal for an exhibition round picture books that I’m curating at San Telmo Museum in San Sebastian. Aside from these assignments I at all times carry on engaged on my private initiatives. Now I’m producing new materials for a venture that offers with the concept of panorama; an idea that’s omnipresent in my work.
Born San Sebastian, Spain, in 1978, Jon Cazenave graduated in Financial Sciences from the College of Deusto in 2001, earlier than he grew to become a photographer. His work has been exhibited internationally and has appeared in El País Semanal, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue UK, M le journal du Monde, and likewise in specialised media together with GUP Journal, Die Nacht Journal and L’oeuil de la Photographie. His work has been acknowledged in awards akin to: descubrimientos Photoespaña, FotoPres La Caixa Grant, Basque Authorities Positive Arts Grant, Tokyo Worldwide Images Award, PDN Award and Voies Off Arles. In 2016 he was chosen to take part within the 18th version of the European Eyes on Japan program, and in 2019 he directed and produced the photographic work for the Balenciaga and Spanish Portray catalogue for the Thyssen-Bornemisza Nationwide Museum. Discover out extra about his pictures on his web site and Instagram web page.
The perfect instrument.